GULMARG '07/08: TRIP REPORT: skiing

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AVALANCHE AWARENESS

This post is dedicated to the friends and family of Shaun Kratzer, a man lost in an avalanche one year ago today, at Gulmarg. An account of this sad event by someone who was there can be found at The Avy in Gulmarg. There is also a discussion of this particular avalanche with photographs of the crown and deposition located at this forum thread at Teton Gravity Research. (The area of that slide is now known as Shaggy's Face). An additional account of this tragedy can be read where it was originally reported at News.com.au (Caution: This article is accompanied by a disturbing photograph of the victim).

The snowfall at Gulmarg this season has been generous, increasing the danger of avalanche at the resort, and especially in the adjacent bowls, which are unpatrolled, but heavily skied. There has been a slide in every bowl of Mt. Affarwat this season. Fortunately, the resort has retained the services of experienced patrollers and avalanche experts, and has gained permission to use explosives to trigger pre-emptive slides to control the danger to skiers.

Please consult the following avalanche resources before venturing into the backcountry, and if you intend to visit Gulmarg the patrollers firmly ask that one come equipped with a transceiver, a probe, a shovel, and the knowledge to properly use them all.

AVALANCHE RESOURCES:
The Avalanche Center
The Avalanche Encyclopedia
Surviving the Backcountry - Tahoe World.
WestWide Avalanche Network
Photo credit: Corey Putkunz

ORIGINAL POST: 08 FEB 2008

DRUNG, BABARESHI, & TANGMARG

Several of the long-distance runs off of Mt. Affarwat are named for the villages where they terminate after a distance of many kilometres. The bowls to the east of the summit, on the skier’s right, generally run to a drainage that leads to the small community at Drung. Babareshi can be reached from the bowls to the west of the summit. From either of these villages one must walk to Tangmarg, where there is transport back to Gulmarg.
Photo credit: Griffiths/Smith

ORIGINAL POST: 16 FEB 2008

GULMARG GONDOLA, STAGE ONE (2650-3050m)

Gondola car approaching G2 (top station, stage one).
Photo credit: MHIP

Matt R. finds airtime behind the Green Heights Hotel.
Photo credit: John Carolin

ORIGINAL POST: 21 FEB 2008

GULMARG GONDOLA, STAGE TWO (3050-3950m)

The pre-ski scene at G3.
Photo credit: MHIP

Hiking the ridge to the OB.
Photo credit: John Carolin

Andrew J. ripping cold smoke somewhere in Drung Bowls.
Photo credit: John Carolin

ORIGINAL POST: 22 FEB 2008

KASHMIR, GULMARG REPORT MOST SNOWFALL IN 15 YEARS

Major snowfall is considered a causal factor in border monitors reporting zero militant infiltrations. Pray for more snow!
Photo credit: Sam Smith

Heavy snowfall brings down infiltration in Gulmarg - MeriNews, 23 February 2008.

ORIGINAL POST: 25 FEB 2008

AVALANCHE AWARENESS, PT. TWO: GULMARG

Brian Newman, leader of the Snow Safety team for Gulmarg 07/08, with Nanga Parbat in the background.Mr. Newman is a no-nonsense individual who takes his job very seriously, and each Tuesday night he and his Snow Safety team hosted a (spellbinding) presentation on the subject of avalanche danger at the Pine Palace. This was always a very well attended, SRO event that never failed to make a sobering impression on the gathered crowd.

Brian is careful to stress that this presentation in no way substituted for actual avalanche training, and in doing so, most definitely motivated many in attendance to seek out that training. (The Snow Safety team established a permanent, simulated buried victim and transceiver as a practice facility on the grounds of the Pine Palace).
Photo credit: John Carolin
Image courtesy of Brian Newman

Lest you remain unimpressed with the inherent danger of a big mountain environment I invite you to read this arresting submission by Ptor - the 2007 Kashmir Winter Report.

ORIGINAL POST: 26 FEB 2008

SECOND STORM OF FEB '08, GULMARG

Second storm of February 2008 and the upper gondola (stage two) finally opens! Heavy snowfall on an already destabilizing snowpack caused the upper stage to be closed for several days during the storm, and for a day or more for the ensuing avalanche control. The shutdown continued when the army was unable to deliver the allotted avalanche explosives due to other activities. This led to grumbling, grousing, and finally the hiking and skinning necessary to reach the fluffy goods.

This storm had closed out almost any opportunity to ride due to extremely poor visibility, and even the lower stage had been closed for for a short time. When it opened the hounds were waiting at the gates, and the lineup at the lower stage gondola was edgy, tense, and impatient. We got fully duped because in our excitement we forgot the first rule of deep snow - find all the available pitch on the hill. Instead of heading to the skiers left we dropped right down the gondola line, and after a few slow turns we were stopped dead in our tracks. Many of us ended up actually walking downhill. The sole groomer track had not been rolled out, so first tracks meant pretty slow going. We were sweating balls!
Photo credit: Griffiths/Smith
Photo credit: Sam Smith

ORIGINAL POST: 27 FEB 2008

1ST GLOBAL SNOWBOARD MARATHON, GULMARG

First straightline 1300m of vert, then run uphill to the finish line!

A Rowdy Finish.

1st Position, John Carolin, South Africa;
2cd Position, Ruari MacFarlane, New Zealand;
3rd Position, Michael O'Connor, Australia.
Images courtesy of John Carolin

ORIGINAL POST: 01 MAR 2008

AVALANCHE AWARENESS, PT. THREE

The video below contains NO footage of avalanche events at Gulmarg; it is included here to give one an idea of just how dangerous is this natural phenomenon. The subject of avalanche danger is taken very seriously by the Snow Safety team and the Gulmarg Ski Patrol, and these people did a very good job of ensuring the safety of visitors to Gulmarg. They ought to receive a measure of credit for there being no avalanche fatalities at Gulmarg during this season.

Here is the video, best seen with the volume off, since the soundtrack only glorifies danger, which, as anyone who has been in an avalanche event knows, is not glorious in any way, whatsoever.

ORIGINAL POST: 04 MAR 2008

GULMARG IN MARCH - 600 METERS OF FALLINE POWDER

Returned last night from a respite in Srinagar unsuspectingly surprised to hear reports of dry powder on the upper reaches of Mt. Affarwat. Fresh turns to be had easily by rolling straight out the gondi, more awaiting those hiking over the summit, and off to Sharks Fin.

The bootpack to Affarwat's summit, well-trod by mid-day.
Photo credits: John Carolin

ORIGINAL POST: 05 MAR 08

FINAL TURNS FOR GULMARG 07/08

I postpone leaving Gulmarg by a day to run some more turns off the top of G4. The snow on NW aspects is still dry up high, so I milk farewell turns off Gondola Ridge. An excellent finish to a one-of-a-kind season.
Photo credit: John Carolin
Rider: Michael O'Connor

ORIGINAL POST: 06 MAR 2008